Come and join the Commune Rodarte Spring 2022
One of the biggest emerging trends for Spring 2022 is getting trippy – literally, collections inspired or designed to take a drug or two and leap into the sunset for spiritual awakenings. Monse and Brandon Maxwell are the early leaders of this psychedelic movement, but on Saturday Rodarte’s Laura and Kate Mulleavy went from mild experimentation to full retreat.
The collection started relatively simple for the sisters, with sleek black and white looks that were simultaneously layered and cut to hide and reveal the body. There were hints of a nature theme in the shell-inspired beads and abstract prints that took the form of palm fronds. But – like most trips – things started to get weird as the show progressed: pale pinks gave way to sunset oranges; giant flowers bloomed on dresses and blazers; an alien landed on a beaded cape.
However, it was towards the end of the show, when Rodarte went through everything, that our journey began to take a turn. A pair of dresses adorned with a mushroom print – each with capes that caught the wind and dragged behind the models’ backs like a parachute – closed the first segment of the runway. What followed was each model walking barefoot in nearly identical high-necked dresses accessorized only with gold chains, the dresses only differing in different pale shades, from whites and yellows to pinks and shades. lilac. As they took their places on the podiums and in front of the statues, it was clear that we had reached the commune of Rodarte. And our leader? A model in a puffy purple dress, her arms nestled inside a cocoon, a small succulent in her hand.
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I’m sure there were a movie reference or two in there that I don’t recognize because I almost only see Marvel movies anymore. (No one talks to me about Martin Scorsese.) And there were plenty of those over-the-top pieces, like sheer lace gowns with billowing capes and gowns dripping with beads, that made Rodarte a go-to brand for celebrities looking to make a statement on the red carpet. . But there was also profoundly portable – dare I say “staple”? — pieces too: oversized blazers, silky handkerchief skirts, ruffled blouses, among others.
It’s been clear in recent seasons that the Mulleavy sisters are tempering their artistic inspirations with a more wearable (or, that dirty word, “commercial”) sensibility — and their work is all the stronger for it.